Category: Blog 2008

Altitude – 4300m

Weather – ‘its raining again’ Supertramp

Well I must say I wasn’t expecting 36 hours of absolute misery, especially after an excellent amount of time trekking to improve acclimatization. But there you have it – my body was not meant to travel above 4000m. I started to get a headache at the 3600m camp, which progressed steadily through the day yesterday until when I arrived at the 4300m lodge I knew I was in deep trouble.

What is so fascinating though is that as part of the science [our program in collaboration with the Montreal Heart Institute led by Michel White] to better understand why some people acclimatize well and others don’t, we had used oximeters for almost 36 hours; through the night at 3600m and then through the day while climbing and again throughout the night at 4300m. I made for an excellent guinea pig. The most interesting part of all was that my oxygen saturations fell to the low 70’s overnight and for whatever reason my heart rate did not respond normally, it stayed in the 50’s and 60’s. Normally that degree of hypoxia should have stimulated a big increase in heart rate to try to improve oxygen delivery to my tissues. During exercise, during the climb, my oxygen saturations fell into the 60’s. The same low oxygen saturation and inappropriately low heart rate repeated itself overnight at 4300m. I couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the oximeter reading a saturation of 74% and a heart rate 56 at rest. I mean really what’s up with that? So while I felt miserable, I provided great data to try to come to a better understanding of why, perhaps, some people do not do well with altitude.

Needless to say I came off the mountain. Even more amazing is yet again Dale was by my side. He once again turned away his opportunity to go higher and further to make sure I arrived in Lukla safely. We started a 7 hour trek – up 300m (that hurt) and then down 1700m to Lukla. We arrived safe and sound in Lukla and actually met up with Charles who was still waiting to get out of Lukla by plane [no flights because of the monsoon]. What can be said about Dale other than he is a most amazing individual. He is an inspiration to all transplant recipients and those waiting, I believe there is nothing he can’t accomplish and yet he continues to put other peoples safety (e.g. me) ahead of his own goals. He acclimatized very well and I have no doubt whatsoever that had the weather been reasonable, and I had not been present on the trek with Acute Mountain Sickness as an obstacle, he would have summited Mera.

On the way down from the pass we stopped off at the local Lukla hospital and donated all of our XS meds – including Viagra (happy Sherpa’s). I had met a young woman and her baby 3 days previously. The baby had a severe skin infection extending into her ear. We did not have the right meds to treat her so I gave her money and asked her to promise {on Buddha} to take her daughter to the Lukla hospital. Serendipitously there she was when we came through! I spoke to the staff at the hospital and explained why I had sent her in. They were also quite worried given the location/type of infection and the risk that it may have caused meningitis. A clinic visit costs 50 rupees about 80 cents. Her daughter will receive the care she needs. That in itself made the trip worthwhile.

All’s well in Lukla – we even managed to have the locals watch us play pool last night! We found a place that made fresh cut fries? Can you believe it? Perhaps it was just 2 weeks of camp food but man they were good. We went to the Lukla airport this morning in the hopes that our flight would come in. They use twin Otters and have to be able to see both the runway (sloped down at an alarming degree, very very short, with a 1000 foot fall off at the end) and the mountains (alarmingly close). Charles had spent the entire day before at the airport in the hopes of getting out but no such luck. We watched 8 flights come and go as the clouds slowly moved in, then finally our flight came in. They emptied the 18 seater of people and luggage and reloaded for takeoff in under 7 minutes (Air Canada – take that!). We arrived in Kathmandu to 34 degree weather and now must make the rest of the 5 flights to get home- it will take some time.

The Montreal Heart Institute team has decided to press on to Mera despite the weather which has been getting steadily and steadily worse. We spoke to some climbers who had come down off Lhotse (>8000m peak) who said that when you’re high in the mountains you are above the clouds, so we can only hope for good weather, success and most importantly the safe return of the MHI group…..but clearly things are getting tougher. In truth the weather is so bad now that you can’t even be sure you’re not hiking in Scotland. The MHI group has a satellite phone and email access and will provide updates directly to individuals/loved ones.

Thanks for following along and for all of your comments, which were wonderful to read while the tents surfed away in the storm. IWD thanks for the equipment and satellite phone to make the blog possible; PS you were right. I must also thank Hark for all his technical support. Jason Chiu with the foundation is the poor sod who got up early, weekends included, in order to get the blog loaded – thanks Jason!!!!!

Mom I promise I am done with high adventure. The next testyourlimits adventure will be much closer to earth – guaranteed!! Stay Tuned……..

H

Altitude – up 800 or so, down 200

Weather – ‘raindrops keep falling on my head’ Hal David and Burt Bacharach

We awoke to a brilliant sky. The camp was perched on a high ridge about 3600m. The sun had broken through and we finally caught a glimpse of what has been eluding us for days. Nothing had washed away in the night, everyone was still present and all gear accounted for. We set off up a steep hill and realized, since we could see, that we were highly exposed. If you look at the picture of Dale reaching the top of one section and look back in the distance you can see another hiker moving across a relatively flat section. Wow.

A few Sherpa rules became law on the day

Sherpa flat = up/down 10-30 m repetitively such that after about 1 hour you have not gained or lost any elevation [but you feel that you have already climbed a few mountains].

Sherpa factor – regardless of measure: time, distance or elevation gain; multiply by a factor of 1.5 and you will get the real amount.

We steadily progressed up the climb until we reached a spectacular area where we crossed ridge after ridge. There was a part of me that was thrilled for the mist as I couldn’t see just how far I would fall if I slipped. After about 4.5 hours we came to the lunch spot. It was a brief affair as the rain came again. We then climbed a further 350m to the pass, with vivid imaginations in play as 2 8000m peaks are normally seen from this pass – and we saw cloud/mist/rain. As part of the science all of us wore oxymeters for the duration of the hike as it was our first over 4000m. We then descended down into the lodge for the night a plain wood building with minimal amenities. We had to splurge 10$ in order to stay there – which we did happily – because it was dry. Camp at 4300m.

H

Dale as study subject

high exposure

sunrise over camp – day 10

the enchanted path

Altitude – up 800m steady

Weather – ‘here comes the rain again falling in my eyes like a tragedy, tearing me apart like a new emotion’ – Annie Lennox. In truth it was a bit better today. We moved through mist and cloud with brief rain.

Last evening I went for a moonlight walk at 2 am. There was a full moon and all the constellations were visible. In the distance were two large snow covered peaks (6000m range) reflecting the moonbeams. It was so magical and so perfectly clear that I wondered whether we should turn our clock around and hike at night.

We started earlier this morning because of fears of the rain. We used a new path that was enchanted. It rose up at a 45 degree angle into the rhododendron bushes again – red, pink and white. Unlike back home these are 20 feet tall and tower over you as you walk dropping their petals on your path. There were steep fall offs as we moved along the ridge after climbing 600m. I was partly grateful for the mist so I couldn’t see just exactly how far down it went. Dale spent a portion of the day walking with his umbrella looking like a real native, but eventually had to give in to his walking sticks because of the steepness of the path. I was walking behind him and noticed a leech stand to attention and attach itself to me. I jumped, startled, and brushed it off. The second one I was a bit more cool about – oh hey there’s a leech on me, no worries – and brushed it off. The third and fourth were just irritating. By the time I removed the 5th, I thought I should see if his/her siblings wanted some blood too.

We paused briefly for a packed lunch [yeah the goat is done, no more goat!]. We then climbed a further 200m to camp.The camp is built on multiple levels at 3600m high on the ridge in the clouds. There are three trails leading to camp – two established and ours [very new].

Ablutions are a real challenge here. The photos show the good and the bad. The ugly has been censored in case anyone is eating while reading the blog]. In the wild is easiest!

We experienced such a storm this afternoon that all we were missing were the locusts. My tent is officially a Noah’s ark. We dug trenches around all the tents to prevent flooding. The deluge was immense, hail included. I think it is official the monsoon is here – we were hoping for monlater but got monsoon.

Tomorrow another big day – steady up again to about 4600m.

H

the good throne

the bad throne

sunset in mist

Altitude – gain of 850m to an altitude of 2859

Weather – how many different ways can you say rain?

We woke up to rain this am at 6. However by 930 when we said a tearful goodbye to Charles the sun had come out. It was about 33 degrees. We climbed steadily out of the valley to an old monastery that was mostly abandoned. As we waited for lunch the skies again opened up and the rains came down. This time with a vengeance. Lunch was goat liver (I asked Dale how long he thinks we will eat goat and he figures about 20% of the goat is being consumed per day so hopefully only 4 more days [I don’t think we should sell goat at the Tibetan bread stand, unless Stella you think you can cook it well]). We perched for lunch on the 2nd floor of the deserted monastery looking in on the inner courtyard while the rains came down. There was a small family living at the monastery, one of the women admired the beads that I have carried (thanks Jason). They have become a talisman for me.

Now please close your eyes and imagine. That’ not going to work is it – actually how about if you just imagine. An eavestrough about a boot and a half wide, full of leaves and dirt, at a 15 degree angle, draining the runoff from Niagara falls. That is what we hiked up this afternoon. After a couple of hours of eavestrough walking we arrived in Pangom. The good news was that we had a lodge, small but wonderful. Even better I broke out the tunes with my iPod and tiny speakers. At present Bob Marley is playing away. Anything to lift spirits.

Housekeeping is a challenge. We were only allowed to bring 25kg of gear. Sounds like a lot but when you add the sleeping bag, tent, warm gear, spare boots it doesn’t leave much room. Hence we are always trying to clean clothes. The problem is, with the damp weather things just don’t dry. This is a constant for us – damp clothes, boots, socks etc.

We go up and up from here – planning to hit a 5300m pass in three days?! Dave is thrilled about this because he seemed to attract all of the flying beetles into his dinner last night. These should be less of a problem once we go higher.

the french quarter

lunch at the monastery

Dale at monastery overlooking Kharikola

kids at the monastery

When we landed in Nunthala I can’t tell you how thrilled I was to find we were staying at the Shangri-La hotel………..and they have a shower……cold water but still clean.

There are still major concerns that we are dealing with the leading edge of the Monsoon. When we arrive in Kharikhola tomorrow we need to make a decision – do we go on or do we go to Lukla because of the monsoon.

H

artsy photo to drive Dale crazy

I SAW IT, I SAW IT! Everest came out to play just at sunset, with a full moon rising – epic, fierce, beautiful, magnetic……I can sleep now.

Day 5 – what I am calling the Rhododendron day. We started today at camp and climbed 400m up to the pass. It was misty, Ireland/Scotland/Wales misty. Full of Rhododendrons all in full bloom. The path was wide intermittently paved with stone and hard packed earth. There were blooms all over with the air rich with their scent. They kept talking about all the hills – pointing to 5000m MOUNTAINS, wow what can we say now about Mont Royal or Hoggs Hollow – I mean really – who are we kidding?

Junbesi town with directions!

Sorry about the delayed posting of photos yesterday, the dread bug felled me and I went to bed before dinner. I just didn’t have it in me to stand in the cold. Today dawned sunny and beautiful, I was so happy I celebrated by changing my underwear. We climbed 1400m steady up. Now at 3178m. The day started hot, sunny with risks of dehydration and sunstroke. We stopped at a wonderful Buddhist prayer centre for lunch. The Buddhist prayer centre was in the midst of prayers when we arrived. They allowed me to watch; very peaceful chanting with drums crescendo-ing (Mom is that a real word?) into a cacophony of discordant sounds, horns and drums. Lunch included Tibetan flat bread, Dale and I have decided to open a chain in Canada – way better than Krispy Kreme.